Time flies….

Nearly 2 months since my last post - I can't believe it. So now I am thinking about time & where it flies off to & how do we try to control it….

I must have stopped counting how long we have been here a while ago now, so we are 3 and a half months in when I count it up. That seems incredible & also makes me panic a little because it shows that the 2 years is going to fly by! 

Where are we up to? Long Boy is now in Argentina on a Spanish school trip - left yesterday at 6am from school, 20 of them & 2 teachers. Buenos Aires & Cordoba for 8 days. What a fantastic experience - my school trips were down to the local shopping centre with a clipboard to harass some unsuspecting pensioners innocently going about their business! 

Squeeze has been partying with friends for the past 24 hours - popped home to replace her contact lenses & gone again. This has been a major surprise for us - the freedom & ease of the children's social lives - in Johannesburg! Creates it's own problems with balancing schoolwork, sleep, family time but we are getting there. Any normal family with teenagers has the same issues I am sure, wherever they live.

We have been travelling - that takes time! Time to plan, pack, travel & enjoy! Last trip was Cape Town - WOW! Will do a separate blog on that - it deserves it. Another trip next weekend - to Hazyview (minus Long Boy of course - sob!). 

Scarborough, Western Cape

Last weekend Squeeze was dancing in Pretoria in a show called "A Galaxy Beyond Imagination" - wonderfully choreographed & produced by the Dance school she attends in Bryanston. Again, we had to pinch ourselves that 3 months in to this New Adventure, we were watching our daughter/sister more than holding her own on stage! 

Squeeze in rehearsals

Bradley (had to lose the Lance nikname after the recent shocking news :(( ) is racing in the Momentum 94.7 cycle challenge tomorrow morning & is currently busy polishing his bike! He has been training hard & has lost weight as well as a lot of time in the gym! You have to admire him - when he sets his mind to something, he's off! 

So where has my time gone over the last 2 months since I last wrote? Not sure really - heavily involved in Thokozani but that is only once a week, lunch & coffees take up a decent amount of time as does shopping & exploring the many, many retail outlets in Johannesburg. Then there is the vets (ear infection after too much swimming), ad hoc bits & bobs like losing 1 hour & 42 minutes trying to but $$ for Long Boy's jolly to South America, physio on my knee (another story) and so on. Same day to day things, just different location.

I also spend a lot of time taking photos of silly things - random things that catch my eye! Like the following:

Paperwork - that is another thing that takes up a lot of my time - as does queuing! But I am chilled, probably the most chilled I have been in a long time so let time tick on - do it's worst - because we are enjoying every minute of it! 

Out & about...

It would be so very easy to stay put in the environs of Dainfern & Dainfern Valley, never venturing beyond FourWays Mall & having the occasional evening out at Montecasino! The days go quickly here -  although I am not entirely sure what with seeing as there are no household chores to do (maid) or general maintenance (renting) & even getting up at 6am (school bus arrives at 6:40am) doesn't seem to make much difference….. but there is always time to explore & learn. 

Cooling Towers in Soweto

When I was telling people in the UK that I was coming to live in Joburg reactions ranged from "Oh Dear" to "Exciting!" but the general reaction was "What a shame it's not Cape Town" or "Do you have to?". I have already mentioned that Googling "Living in Johannesburg" is not the most reassuring thing to do but I would like to set the record straight…..

FNB Soccer Stadium 

Ok, I have only been here 7 weeks but I have tried to learn more about the place we will be living in for the next 2 years including:
1. buying a car from Melrose
2. visiting a township in Diepsloot
3. enjoying The Nutcracker at Joburg Theatre, downtown
4. spending a day walking through the Central Business District with a group of white, well dressed ladies 
5. lunching in a variety of places like The Westcliffe & Deco Park
6. walking the dog at Walkhaven, a fabulous off-lead piece of walking for the pup in your life
7. spending another day with not the same but similarly dressed ladies in Soweto
8. feeling rather overwhelmed at the Apartheid Museum

Hector Pieterson Museum

Nelson Mandela's former house

Not bad for 7 weeks I think! And the most incredible thing about it for me is that had the Doubting Thomases & The Cynics had their way I wouldn't be here! I have already had a number of "Pinch Me I'm dreaming" moments, like standing in Nelson Mandela's former home &  & I am one very lucky lady!

Texting! 

Yes, some of the trips have been organised & with a guide but I do feel that I could drive into Soweto & have lunch on my own trip with friends. You have to be careful of course - I was told I should have left my engagement ring at home - but you have to be careful everywhere. Just yesterday the latest crime statistics for South Africa were reported - a fall of 3.7% for murders over the past year but a 27.6% reduction over the past 8 years. There are still 43 murders a day in South Africa but it is a pretty big place & perhaps for some people South Africa = Johannesburg.

Joburg has a lot to offer - it's not Paris or New York, but there is certainly stuff to do for everyone. You might just need to look for it a bit more & organise yourself but it is doable… and really really enjoyable.

And for those who suggested Cape Town as being a more enjoyable place to bring teenagers up, read on…..http://urbantitan.com/the-10-most-dangerous-cities-in-2012

CBD Johannesburg

Trailing…with the kitchen sink!

Oh the joys of being a "trailing spouse"! I've been one before, in Belgium, and it didn't sit too well with me then either! It doesn't work for my husband either really - he is used to me going alone, being independent, sorting "stuff" out! Plus he has a job to do! That's why we are here…..

So, today's adventure goes a little like this… awake at 5:50am to make sure all is in hand for the TRN (Traffic Register Number) Adventure, leave house at 6:40am to try to avoid some of the traffic heading into the centre - where I am heading. Arrive at SatNav destination (corner of Jan Smuts & Bram Fischer) with no idea where the Randburg Civic Centre is. Drive around a bit, stop at robots (traffic lights) & ask a nice looking lady where the Civic Centre is. She says she is heading that way & can she climb in the car! Momentary panic, then I think "what the Heck"! Nice lady gets in the back & off we go - 150 metres down the road, arriving at the place I need to be & I think nearer where she was going! 

So far so good. Feeling pretty pleased with myself - it is 7:32am & I am in control! Car parked, I head to the "line" - I had been warned to expect a long line so was armed with my knitting & Nelson Mandela's "Long Walk to Freedom". It's not too bad - about 15 people in front of me & the doors aren't open yet - website says 7:30am so anytime now. Official looking man walks along the line dishing out various forms which we can then fill in whilst we wait - which was a good time-filler as doors only opened at 8:03am. You can only get this form - for the Traffic Register Number to register my newly purchased car in my name - at the offices, not online.

Form completed, papers & kitchen sink at the ready - bring it on! I reach the window at 8:26am & 30 seconds later I am on my heel walking out, spitting feathers and cursing the spouse that I am trailing! Call said spouse & explain that not only do I need:

- my passport
- 2 certified passport photos
- proof of address
- proof of payment for the car
- my driving licence
- vehicle inspection document

ALL OF WHICH I HAD!

I also need:
- HIM
- his passport
- our marriage certificate
- and chuck in a G&T!!

His passport is somewhere being somethinged for an upcoming trip to Zambia so no good & marriage certificate is at home. I head home - at least I will know where to come next time…..

SO - in case you are reading this with the feint hope of finding out how you obtain your Traffic Register Number - which I am still not sure whether I actually need other than to receive traffic fines! - you will need all of the above & more. TAKE EVERYTHING, especially your spouse - and for good measure, walk 2 paces behind him and don't look him in the eye! 

Final note - see poster that was stuck to the window - TRN applications are only available until 10am - even though they are open until 3pm. DON'T ASK!!!

A Rainbow Nation…. International Day at AISJ!

Last Friday epitomised one of the very reasons why we chose to come to Johannesburg, uproot the children from their idyllic British lives & set up shop here in South Africa. International Day at the children's school - a Parade of Nations, flags waving, national anthems being murdered by the school band…..

84 different nationalities were represented - and the sense of pride was palpable….. especially for us Welshies!! The children have never lived in Wales but I think have a decent enough Welshness about them - even though they were born & brought up in England, with a stint in Brussels & now Joburg. As the AISJ School Director, Andy Page-Smith said: "it doesn't matter if you don't hold a passport for that country or indeed if you have never lived there, if you feel an affinity to a place then it's great! " - or something along those lines.

I arrived early, along with the other Mums that had committed to prepare & serve food from their home nations. The table was decorated - with one of our Mums having the genius insight to bring along a Golden Jubilee edition of OK!. 

All the tables looked great - a lot of effort had been put in. We then hurried down to the field to enjoy the spectacle of The Parade of Nations. I didn't really know what to expect but it was just marvellous - having been in France for the Jubilee Celebrations and then in transit for the Olympics, this was the closest I was going to get to the Opening Ceremony!! 84 countries - some just with one or two children through to the US & South Africa! WOW - there are a lot of them! Then the flags are hung side by side along the top of the hill - a true Rainbow Nation.

Back to the gym, and a feeding frenzy! Piranhas have nothing on High School students - all our food disappeared - especially the trifles! Interesting explaining a trifle to a Ghanaian gentleman…..custard, how do you explain that! 

Makes me proud of what we have done & excited for who the children will be when they are adults! 

Parenting - different city, same hormones!

New city, new country, new school, new friends - same teenage hormones kicking in although at the moment they seem to be worse than normal. Each morning I try to put this down as a "New Day", aren't they doing so well at settling & are really getting stuck into their new lives…..then they walk in the door at the end of the school day …

I ask them tentatively how was their day & wait……. "good thanks" from one, silence from the other! So I probe a little further as they raid the cupboards (currently being replenished at least 3 times a week with "goodies") - "Anything happen?" I ask - "not really", "nope"……..

So - watch the mistake - I say "It would be really nice to have a bit more information about your day…" 

With that Long Boy disappears upstairs to his room "to do homework" and Squeeze remains just staring at her snack & concentrating on what else she can eat. So I leave it & think we'll have another "chat" at supper…..

Suppertime - family chat - looking forward to it….. one of the things that we were looking forward to moving here was that Lance would be home every night and we could enjoy family time more. Well - I'm not sure if teenage hormones are set to peak over family suppers but in our house, at the moment, they are! They both start asking for various things they need for school, money for "essential" items, lifts to friends, requests for sleepovers - nothing really as part of a conversation….. then something happens - last night, LB didn't recognise a vegetable in the chicken casserole I had made. I couldn't remember either because it was a new one I was trying - 

LB:  "well I am not eating it unless I know what it is", 

me: "Just give it a go - it won't kill you!", 

LB: "I am not eating it until I know what it is" 

- and so it goes on until LB is rummaging through the bin for the packet & Lance has taken his meal to his room!!!

Makes me feel I am getting it all so wrong but also I want the respect they show other adults outside of the house!!

I take myself to bed & pick up "the Teenage Bible" which was recommended to me by friends with older kids - "Get Out of My Life: But First Take Me & Alex into Town!" by Tony Wolf & Suzanne Franks (available in most countries & certainly on Amazon!). From deep depression to laugh out loud in a few minutes - to the extent that I am reading it to the children & Lance - all lying on our bed & regrouping!! 

I am not sure whether the book gave me any specific help but it certainly entertained not only me but the rest of my ageing family…….. and the veg, in case you are still with me were patty pans!!! 

Coco Pops, mixed spice & a maid's uniform!

One of the concerns Squeeze had when we were contemplating the move to South Africa was FOOD! What would we be able to find in the shops - her main concerns were Coco Pops and Nutella….essential nutritional items for any 12 year old!

Well let me assure you that Joburg supermarkets are exceptionally well stocked, with both local and international goodies. The main chains are Checkers and Pick & Pay ( a bit like Tesco, Sainsbury's), Spar (much more upmarket than UK Spar) and then there is Woolworths. Woolies is not like the UK Woolies (RIP!) but more like Marks & Spencer - in fact we dug a little and M&S part own Woolies so it really is similar! 

The local Spar (at Broadacres) is exceptional - they will even import products if you ask nicely! Lance is after Hellmans full fat Mayo! Everything is here - and more! It is Internatioanl Day next Friday at AISJ & I have offered to make Welsh Cakes - quite delicious little drop scones with mixed fruit. A key ingredient is mixed spice & I had a momentary panic that I would have to get it sent over from the UK & with the SA postal system not quite up to speed etc etc….. but silly old me, there it was nestled happily along with the other 372 herbs & spices you can buy here! 

 So worry not - if you are coming here to live, or just visiting, there is everything you need and a few added extras - like Monkey Gland Sauce or an outfit for your maid (you will find those between the turps & the pet food!)

Thokozani Pre-School, Diepsloot

So, 2 mornings ago I was at the Dainfern International Social Club (DISC) trying to decide whether I had reached that stage in my life to start flower arranging or to go straight to quilting. 24 hours later I was in Diepsloot with a lovely group of volunteering ladies who were next to the flower arranging! 

Diepsloot is a township which currently houses about 150,000 people - most in 3m x 2m shacks. I call it the New Soweto but it has actually been around 1995 when it was started as a transit camp! It actually has "celebrity" status - Karl Pilkington visited here in 2011 for the series An Idiot Abroad. The township even has it's own website - www.diepsloot.com.

What it doesn't appear to have is refuse collection, tarmac on the roads, clean air, proper water connections, housing - I could go on!

We drive the 9 kilometres from our luxury residential estates to Thokozani Pre-school. It's not far but the contrast in living conditions is jaw dropping. The smell of sewage as we step out of our cars is gut-wrenching and we have to stand a moment to catch our breath. Into the little school we go & I am suddenly overwhelmed wen I hear over 100 little voices cheering & whooping with delight - for us, for the 2 hours that we are about to spend with them. I have to step away a little to wipe my tears - what on earth have I to cry about? Is it the guilt? Is it the pure joy on their faces? Whatever it is, I need to get over it quickly & smile.

Heads, Shoulders, Knees & Toes

So smile we did, as well as counting, singing Heads, Shoulders, Knees & Toes - and of course the Hokey-Cokey! We counted petals out with them, helped them to stick the shapes onto a piece of paper to make a flower - some of them have never glued before. 

They didn't notice the smell (we were working outside with them as there is not enough room in the classroom to have tables), the wind that blew dust over their work or the chill in the winter air. They were SO happy with their flowers……..

We take fresh vegetables each week - perhaps the only vegetables they will eat. The kitchen is a shambles - that is what we are now working on - money to build a proper kitchen. For some of these children, the only meals they receive are provided here.

The Baby Room - about 30 children (the really little ones who are not yet moved across into the classrooms) in a shack smaller than Squeezie's bedroom. They have nothing to do - no music, nothing. It smells, some of them are crying, others sleep, others just stare.

The Baby Room 

These volunteers, expat trailing spouses just like me, have managed to find a sponsor, rebuild 2 classrooms, put a floor down, paint the walls, buy chairs & tables - all since February 2012! FANTASTIC EFFORT - and they are not stopping there. We need to a lot more & then these children might actually have a decent shot at making a life for themselves.

I am not the first to write about "expat wife gets involved in local needy school" and I certainly won't be the last - but whilst I am here, I am going to do my very, very best to make a difference.

A few snaphots

A few snapshots of life so far in Jozi….

View from the driveway….

Our home for the next 2 years…..

Just the most wonderful way to spend the evening…. our terrace... 

The food is just wonderful…..

…as are the cocktails…..

Our African Queen!

One month in...

Spring has started here in Joburg - another beautiful day. Almost every day is a sunshine day but I have  not yet stopped checking the upcoming week's forecast! British habit I'm afraid. I'm sure it will wear off but for the time being the weather is still an app on my phone.

So, a month in - blimey where did that go? I think we have been incredibly luckily in settling so quickly. Others say that it is pretty standard here in Dainfern. Expats are certainly open & welcoming & we feel hugely grateful to have been "adopted" by some Brits who have been here about 2 years. There is something very comforting about nationality - even if people haven't lived in the UK for years. There will of course be so much opportunity to meet people from everywhere. The kids have done it already - their social group is from all areas of the globe - Puerto Rico, US, France, Sweden, India - the list goes on. So I'm sure it will only be time until we are mixing with all sorts!

Life is sweet as they say - weekends are so relaxing (renting a house & having a maid & gardener!). To be honest there is not an awful lot to do in Joburg - other than eat & shop - so time is spent socialising, doing some sort of sport & generally chilling. 

Children are asking if we can stay longer than 2 years - I know we are only one month in but let's see. Hoping the bubble won't burst cos this place is a really great way of life.......

Whilst waiting for Airfreight to arrive..

... I thought I would add a few more thoughts.

Just back from a High School meeting at AISJ where both my children are at school. One in High School, the other in Middle. So far I am impressed! Yes it is all very American - but they seem to have taken the best bits (nurturing, active, embracing) and added in some international elements. Long Boy is doing JOMUN - Johannesburg Model United Nations - in September, representing India! Not entirely sure what that means but I am sure we will learn. Lots of social activities, both planned & unplanned.
Squeezie has made the basketball team - amazing as she has never played before although was pretty keen on netball in the UK. We have the Middle School Open House this coming Tuesday - a walkabout through the timetable - 10 min intros to the subject, meet the teacher & see the classroom. Loads of parents & if you speeded it all up, it would go very well to the Benny Hill music! 

Choosing a new school at this stage of their school careers (especially Long Boy who would have just been starting his GCSEs in the UK) is BIG! They are following the IB here & as I said, so far so good. 

Back to the airfreight - 17 boxes (300kgs) for our 2 years here - and we don't really need most of that! Quite liberating shedding "stuff"! 

Moving to Johannesburg

I remember vividly the day my husband "mentioned" to me the possibility of moving to…. of all places….Johannesburg! January 11th 2012 - perhaps it was the immediate nausea that I felt, or the sheer panic! He "left it with me" to research & investigate, but with the final sentence of "…my projects have pretty much dried up in Europe!". No pressure then.

So It went a little like this:
- Day 1 - felt sick
- Day 2 - googled "Living in Johannesburg" - NEVER DO THAT! 
- Day 3 - spoke to the Head of Admissions at AISJ (the American International School of Johannesburg) and that conversation produced a seismic change in my views & that night I said "OK - let's do it"!

A long 7 months later & here we are - 2 weeks in The Adventure & really enjoying it. We arrived in March for a "look/see" and to house hunt - a little early to be honest but all turned out OK. Was impressed from the start - the flight (night) was manageable, OR Tambo was clean & well organised - we were met by a driver & taken straight to the hotel. My husband was already working here so we were arriving alone. Streets seemed clean & safe - nobody was being raped or shot whilst we were driving past - and of course  the sun was shining! We stayed for 5 days - all of my pre conceptions gone by the end & we were all ready for this - The Next Adventure.

One of the reasons for doing this blog is to give some more insight to others faced with this decision - the press do NOTHING to help reflect the New Jo'burg and so we have little information on what it really is like to live here. You kind of have to come & figure it out for yourself. My views are personal & of course subjective but they are first hand & real! 

We are still very much Newbies - still in the honeymoon period - but one lady who I had lunch with today has been here for 5 years & that honeymoon period has still not ended for her & Africa! 

The start of something new.......

Airfreight arriving tomorrow and really have no idea what is packed in it - 300kgs of stuff that we haven't missed for the past month & cannot even remember what is in it. Too much stuff! 

We are definitely settling in, the children have been at school a week, dog is behaving like some African Queen - sleeping on sofas indeed! I've only got lost once in the car - at night, with my daughter. Scary but my new best friend, SatNav, saw us true. Not good for the heart though....

Leaving Heathrow August 2nd 2012

SO much to write about already....but first, a little intro to us to set the scene. Family of 4 plus the dog (black labrador, aged 6.5 years but still thinks she's a puppy) - me, Belle, Hubbie Lance (not real name but after his cycling hero!), Long Boy (14) and Squeezie (12). Here for 2 years with his work & planning on embracing it with both hands.....bring it on Africa!